The region of Brazil known as the Pantanal -58,000 square miles of rivers and streams, seasonally flooded grasslands, riverine forests and bumpy airstrips, the runways marked out with old tyre halves painted white. The Pantanal is home to between 4,000 and 7,000 jaguar. The presence of these amber-eyed, luxuriantly liveried creatures lends romance to a primordial landscape already brimming with biodiversity. Panthera onca, to use the scientific name of the world's third biggest cat, is listed in Appendix 1 of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES), which means it is among the most threatened creatures on the planet.
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